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50 Years Ago: Making and Forecasting Ocean Waves

Innovation and discovery as chronicled in past issues of Scientific American















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AUGUST 1959
WAVES— "Man would like to learn the ways of the waves merely by watching them, but he cannot, because they set him dreaming. Try to count a hundred waves sometime and see. The questions asked by the wave watchers are nonetheless being answered by intensive studies of the sea and by the examination of waves in large experimental tanks. The new knowledge has made it possible to measure the power and to forecast the actions of waves for the welfare of those who live and work on the sea and along its shores. In the large tank at the Stevens Institute of Technology in Hoboken, New Jersey, artificial irregular waves approach the variability of those in the deep ocean. In our photograph, the ship model proceeds under its own power; its motions are recorded by means of the apparatus above it."

AUGUST 1909
CELESTIAL VISITOR— "The approach of Halley's comet is the most important astronomical event of the years 1909 and 1910. Every seventy-five or seventy-six years this remarkable body completes its far-stretching and extremely elliptical orbit around the sun. It was last seen at the Cape Observatory in May, 1836, but although it vanished from the sight of men, its onward track through space was known with as great accuracy, relatively, as sailors know the way of a ship over the trackless deep. No small emulation is being witnessed between those observatories endowed with large telescopes, as to which one of them will be the first to pick up the returning voyager from far-distant shores."

PROTO-TELEVISION— “Mr. Ernest Ruhmer, of Berlin, well known for his inventions in the field of wireless telephony and telegraphy, has succeeded in perfecting what is probably the first demonstration apparatus which may be said actually to solve the problem of tele-vision. The writer has had an opportunity of inspecting this curious machine immediately before its being sent to Brussels, in order there to be demonstrated before the promoters of the Universal Exhibition planned for next year. In fact, a complete and definite tele-vision apparatus, costing the trifling sum of one and a quarter million dollars, is to be the clou of this exposition.”
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BLÉRIOT’S TRIUMPH— “The dramatic flight of Louis Blériot across the English Chan­nel has set a milestone of progress which must forever be memorable. No one, surely, would be so unjust as to belittle this great performance by reference to earlier and longer flights over the land. In point of risk and daring, that bold, early morning dash across the Channel stands in a class by itself. The fact that the first flying ma­chine to cross the Chan­nel was of a mono­plane design has raised the prestige of that type.”

AUGUST 1859
GOLD GRAVES— “The aboriginal inhabitants of Cen­tral America, who occupied it at its discovery by the white men of the East, had a custom of burying their dead surrounded with gold. We learn that new discoveries have been made at David, Chiriqui [in Panama]. There is now a great emigration to these novel ‘diggins,’ and reports say gold is very profuse. But we are inclined to think that after the country has been so well ransacked in the sixteenth century, there cannot be so much as rumor would have us believe. The images are cast and polished, and exhibit much ingenuity in the modeling. The people by whom such objects were made must have been considerably advanced in civilization. The study of American antiquities will doubtless be advanced by the discovery of these remarkable images, and we think they should be preserved, instead of being thrown into the refiner’s melting-pot, like an unfashioned nugget or scaly dust.”



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  1. 1. candide 09:32 AM 8/7/09

    50 years from now what will people look back at and think "how silly they were for trying to do that..." ?

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  2. 2. JarodA 02:05 AM 8/8/09

    Why not human should discover things that might help us erase all the effect we did with our environment. When you sail in the ocean and you bumped in a new found continent, don’t be surprised. A lot of people haven't heard about the Great Pacific Garbage Patch. The Great Pacific Garbage Patch is basically a patch of garbage, mostly decomposing plastic, in the Pacific Ocean, in the middle of the North Pacific Ocean Gyre – a gyre is an ocean area that several currents collide in to form a circular area – that is estimated to be up to twice the size of Texas. It is awful scenes like it that would make conservation and recycling seem worth some short term loans at least to vamp up. The size of the <a rev="vote for" title="Great Pacific Garbage Patch | We Headed For Space Yet?" href="http://personalmoneystore.com/moneyblog/2009/08/04/great-pacific-garbage-patch/ ">Great Pacific Garbage Patch</a> will take a lot more than payday loans no faxing to clean up, and we must take better care of this earth.

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