In a mere four days on the ground in the central coast, the wildlife tally includes many humpback whales (one of whose gaping maw rose out of the water, forming a shiny dark blue bath tub with water overflowing the sides), four grizzly bears, seals, sea otters and a pod of Pacific white-sided dolphins. It's a remarkable showing, but perhaps to be expected from one of the few remaining areas in the world with largely intact tracts of coastal temperate rainforest. As Coastwatch's Housty says: "The bears are telling us that we have pristine land and we need to keep it that way."

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