CAR CARE: A device from CarMD interfaces with a vehicle's computer to diagnose "check engine" light problems. The firm also provides an estimated repair cost.
Image: JOHN FRASER
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"Uh-oh"--or another, less family-friendly phrase--is probably the first thing drivers utter when the "check engine" light flashes on. It may not mean that the engine is about to explode, but it still demands attention. Odds are, the vehicle will not pass the emissions test required for registration.
Having recently bought a new car, I was eager to try a device similar to those used by mechanics to diagnose the problems that trigger the check engine light. Offered by CarMD, a year-old firm based in Fountain Valley, Calif., the $90 tool retrieves data from the onboard computer of any vehicle sold in the U.S. after January 1, 1996. The device, which won an innovations award at the 2007 Consumer Electronics Show, will not outdo a mechanic's diagnostic equipment, but it will tell you what might be wrong in more understandable terms and how much it might cost to fix the problem. Besides, you could confidently tell the mechanic to check for a leaking exhaust manifold--even if you have no clue what a manifold is.
The driving force (ahem) behind this handy instrument is air pollution--or more specifically, the need to control it. Stiff emissions guidelines in the 1970s eventually led the Society of Automotive Engineers to devise a means of monitoring engines and their exhaust in a standard way. The culmination of that effort is the second generation of onboard diagnostics (OBD-II).
Today's automobile contains myriad sensors, explains Keith Andreasen, CarMD's director of technical services. In the mid-1990s, he says, a vehicle contained "maybe 13 to 15 sensors"; now there are "thousands in a modern-day car." Those sensors keep tabs on the emissions and relay the readings to the car's computer. For instance, if a sensor detected fumes escaping from a balky fuel gasket, it would inform the computer, which would store the data and turn on the check engine light. The computer assigns the problem a "diagnostic trouble code," such as "P0430." (Most codes start with a P, for power train; other prefix codes are B for body, C for chassis and U for the vehicle's communications network.) OBD-II employs several hundred codes, and the readers that extract this information from the computer have become indispensable to both the professional and weekend grease monkey.
Because CarMD targets the consumer, it has tried to make the diagnostic process simple. To communicate with the onboard computer, the handheld tester plugs into the vehicle's data-link connector--a rhomboid-shaped, 16-pin socket reminiscent of the parallel ports of yester decade. The hardest part about using CarMD, in fact, is finding the connector: I had to search online to learn the port's location in my 2006 Mini Cooper S. It was underneath the dashboard, to the left of the steering column, an area that forces you to twist your neck to the breaking point to get a direct view. Fortunately, my wife did not mind scrunching into the foot well with a flashlight to find the plastic flip-down cover, which had "OBD" stamped on it. CarMD has since posted the locations and images of the sockets on its Web site (www.carmd.com), although the description wrongly stated that my socket was uncovered.
After attaching the CarMD reader and turning the ignition to its second position, the unit began communicating with Darwin, the name my wife gave to our Mini. After four beeps from the reader, I yanked it out and saw that the green LED was on--everything was A-OK. I would have been extremely perturbed otherwise, considering that Darwin was only six months old. Connecting the reader to my Windows XP computer via a USB cable (no Mac OS X support), I uploaded the data to my account on the CarMD Web site. The unit correctly extracted the VIN number and description of my car.
But I needed to see how CarMD would do with the check engine light shining. According to the Aftermarket Industry Association, about 6 percent of all vehicles are cruising around with these indicators on. Given the statistics, at least one of those cars should belong to a staff member of Scientific American, which employs about 80 people in New York City. Sure enough, I shook out co-workers with car problems.
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24 Comments
Add Commentmy name is kunhimohamed fromkINDIA
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to this, iam diploma in automobile engineer, iam so intrested car diagonising equipments, mainly iwant to know can i use this carMD in india with toyota, mercidis, bmw, vw, vaxual, honda, etc like cars?
if ican use in india, how to suit the socket in different cars please give me discription
thankyou
my email address;gasal786@yahoo.com
I have a 2003 Acura 3.2 CL Type S Coupe. I hit something on the highway, not sure what, but it was such a hard impact that it dented my right front rim beyond repair (on the inside) and a bubble then appeared on my tire (on the outside.) When driving 20-25 mph and turning the steering wheel slowly in either direction, I feel an uneven response, as if there's intermittent resistance in the steering gear. Will this problem be addressed through a wheel alignment when I get my new tire and wheel installed? What's likely going on? Does this need to go to an Acura dealer for proper diagnosis or repair?
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to this1999 Plymouth Breeze, no heat and temperature is overheating. Do you know what the problem is?
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to this1986 VW Westfalia pop up camper van...I will be installing the 3rd new fuel pump soon (the 3rd one in the past 7 years) 80,000 miles now on this van. Each new fuel pump seems to whine just very very quietly but as time goes by the whining gets louder & louder which makes me think it will fail and leave me stranded so I have a new one put in. The whining is the only sign of trouble. Van is parked for the whole cold 6 to 7 mo. winter and I do not start the vehicle during the winter. Could this be the cause of 3 fuel pumps seeming to go bad on me.
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisvw golf axel bushes have gone
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisDodge Neon 2005
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thislights spedometer radio when starting the car turning the key will click a couple of times and for the 1st 10 minutes of driving once it starts everything will start going crazy headlights will go dim to light radiowill turn off and on spedometer will jump around. what do you think is wrong with my car.
why do i have antifreeze on the driverside and passenger floor board of my 2002 F150
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thishow do i change the heater core on my 2002 F150
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI have a 2003 Chevrolet Malibu and it was running fine. Got up the next morning and it would not start, I had someone come to jump me off and it would not crank. Battery seemed fine. Had the starter replaced and still would not crank. Someone said it maybe the alternator. I am at my wits end. Got to get running before Thanksgiving. ANY SUGGESTIONS OUT THERE?
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisDo you know anything about American made cars, like the Chevrolet Malibu?
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI have a 1996 Plymouth Voyager Van, that seems to have some sort of electrical problem that cant be found. On damp or cold days, there is no power going to the starter to start the vehicle. All the while there is power to the dash, headlights and wipers. Here is the strange thing, you pull the key out and nothing shuts off. The wipers and headlights stay on and you have to pull there fuses in the fuse box to get them to go out. I have replaced the battery, starter and wiper motor. The fuse box has also been pulled, cleaned and new fuses put in. On dry days, this does not happen and everything works fine. Somedays, you can drive it too work and try to start it an hour later and the described happens. You let it set for a while and it will start. Please help with this phantom, costly problem.
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisThe car is slow in taking off, give it to much gas it dies, it doesn't idle very well. When going up a hill it loses speed but going down it runs fine. It had the timing belt replaced in Sept of this yr., it has been overheating but replaced the top hose, but still seems to lose water. Now the car doesn't want to run very well when it reaches 40 unlike before it ran fine. It doesn't seem to have any power at any speed. I was thinking ti could be the cat. converter, someone said they thought it was something to do with the fuel system because we could smell gas kind of strong for a while. It seems to run worse once it warms up. someone said it sounded like it jumped timing. I dont know what it is but I am getting feed up with it.
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisThe car is slow in taking off, give it to much gas it dies, it doesn't idle very well. When going up a hill it loses speed but going down it runs fine. It had the timing belt replaced in Sept of this yr., it has been overheating but replaced the top hose, but still seems to lose water. Now the car doesn't want to run very well when it reaches 40 unlike before it ran fine. It doesn't seem to have any power at any speed. I was thinking ti could be the cat. converter, someone said they thought it was something to do with the fuel system because we could smell gas kind of strong for a while. It seems to run worse once it warms up. someone said it sounded like it jumped timing. I dont know what it is but I am getting feed up with it.
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I have a 1997 dodge caravan that starts then chugs off. What could be the problem
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI have a 1997 Dodge caravan that will start then chug off what could cause this
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI have a 1997 dodge caravan it starts then chugs off what could be wrong
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI have a 1988 Cutlass Supreme.2.8 multi port fuel injection. Our GM dealer replaced everything that was keeping the "service engine light on."Problem is it is no better than it was. Starts fairly easy when it is cold, but starts getting it starts flooding. It will load up and will not idle. 2 or 3 GM technicians and they have no idea what is wrong.When it eventually starts you have to slowly get it up to about 3,000 RPM and it will sort of smooth out ,let it to a idle and it will load up and die.Only thing we haven,t replaced is the converter. I hope someone call tell me how to fix this thing. I have been working on cars and trucks for 40 yrs. but this one has me stumped. PLEASE ANYONE, HELP WAS SUPPOSED TO BE MY GRANDSON'S CAR. THANKS ,EDWARD
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to this2002 trailblazer stall when it go about 20 feet
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to this2002 trailblazer stall when it go 20 feet
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI HAVE A 1983 FORD PICKUP F150 ENGINE 302 THAT THE BATTERY WILL NOT HOLD ACHARGE OR CHARGE IT. HAVE REPLACED SOLENOID SWITCH,VOLTAGE REGULATOR,ALTERNATOR AND NEW BATTERY AND NEWALTERNATOR BELT. THIS HAS ME STUMPED. CAN ANYONE HELP? THANKS,EDWARD
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI HAVE A 1983 FORD PICKUP F150 ENGINE 302 THAT THE BATTERY WILL NOT HOLD ACHARGE OR CHARGE IT. HAVE REPLACED SOLENOID SWITCH,VOLTAGE REGULATOR,ALTERNATOR AND NEW BATTERY AND NEWALTERNATOR BELT. THIS HAS ME STUMPED. CAN ANYONE HELP? THANKS,EDWARD
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI HAVE A 1983 FORD PICKUP F150 ENGINE 302 THAT THE BATTERY WILL NOT HOLD ACHARGE OR CHARGE IT. HAVE REPLACED SOLENOID SWITCH,VOLTAGE REGULATOR,ALTERNATOR AND NEW BATTERY AND NEWALTERNATOR BELT. THIS HAS ME STUMPED. CAN ANYONE HELP? THANKS, BIGFOOT
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI HAVE A 1983 FORD PICKUP F150 ENGINE 302 THAT THE BATTERY WILL NOT HOLD ACHARGE OR CHARGE IT. HAVE REPLACED SOLENOID SWITCH,VOLTAGE REGULATOR,ALTERNATOR AND NEW BATTERY AND NEWALTERNATOR BELT. THIS HAS ME STUMPED. CAN ANYONE HELP? THANKS, BIGFOOT popeye99@peoplepc.com
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