For our online project manager David Yu and his 1999 Acura CL, the tester produced trouble code P0401: "EGR System Insufficient Flow Detected." Among the possible causes, as the CarMD Web site describes them: the EGR valve source vacuum supply line was open or restricted; the EGR exhaust manifold passages were clogged or restricted; or the EGR valve assembly or solenoid valve was damaged or had failed. The most likely fix, according to CarMD, was replacing the EGR valve and cleaning the ports. Making sense of the arcane lingo, some of which is gibberish to the casual driver and grammarian alike, might need some Web research. But for most people, knowing that EGR stands for "exhaust gas recirculation" is much less important than knowing the impact on their wallet. Factoring in geographically weighted labor costs, the program estimated that David should expect to pay $487.70 for repairs.
Mike Florek, our general manager, had a more elusive problem with his 2003 Nissan Pathfinder, which had been flashing its check engine light for some months. CarMD implicated the catalytic converter or the heated-oxygen sensors. When we ran the test in December, CarMD did not offer any suggested fixes--it reported that the problem appeared too infrequently. A few weeks later, though, the details of the repair and its cost appeared (technicians keep updating CarMD's database). The fix: a replacement catalytic converter. The bad news: $828.96. A skilled mechanic, though, would still need to inspect the car thoroughly, because whatever damaged the converter in the first place could still be around to wreck the replacement. CarMD bills the device as a means to "empower" drivers so that they will not, for instance, feel intimidated by sketchy repair people.
But CarMD can also pay for itself, as Silvia De Santis, our prepress and quality manager, can attest. No one likes to see the check engine light come on, but it's really inconvenient when it happens while you are in the throes of labor. (To her husband's credit, he continued driving to the hospital.) Within days after the birth of their son, they brought their Toyota to a mechanic. "After $200 of diagnostic tests," Silvia says, "they told us it was probably an improperly closed gas tank cap"--the most common reason for the light to turn on. I experimented with removing my Mini's gas cap; sure enough, after the check engine light came on, CarMD advised me to "check for loose gas cap and replace if necessary."
The idea for the company began in 1997, when Andreasen and Ieon C. Chen, both working for a developer of automotive test equipment, discussed ways to market a consumer-friendly method of interpreting OBD-II information. Manufacturing the handheld tester was not hard; the challenge was creating a database that users could tap into. Back then, the appropriate Internet technology and usage "was a long way off," Andreasen says. Chen, now the firm's CEO, tried getting venture capital, but "neither the company nor the market was ready," recounts CarMD's marketing director Kristin Brocco. Instead Chen and Andreasen spent years compiling a list of the repairs associated with the trouble codes. The database is in fact the main strength of CarMD.
The firm now has several thousand customers, each of whom can register up to three vehicles. The company also maintains a phone system of live technicians for motorists who break down on the road and cannot get online. The device knows only what the car's computer tells it, so it may not help with pesky issues such as check engine lights that repeatedly turn on and off on their own. A trusted repair shop is still essential, but communicating with the mechanic no longer has to be a one-way street.
This article was originally published with the title The Car Doctor Is In.
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Add Commentmy name is kunhimohamed fromkINDIA
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to this, iam diploma in automobile engineer, iam so intrested car diagonising equipments, mainly iwant to know can i use this carMD in india with toyota, mercidis, bmw, vw, vaxual, honda, etc like cars?
if ican use in india, how to suit the socket in different cars please give me discription
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I have a 2003 Acura 3.2 CL Type S Coupe. I hit something on the highway, not sure what, but it was such a hard impact that it dented my right front rim beyond repair (on the inside) and a bubble then appeared on my tire (on the outside.) When driving 20-25 mph and turning the steering wheel slowly in either direction, I feel an uneven response, as if there's intermittent resistance in the steering gear. Will this problem be addressed through a wheel alignment when I get my new tire and wheel installed? What's likely going on? Does this need to go to an Acura dealer for proper diagnosis or repair?
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to this1999 Plymouth Breeze, no heat and temperature is overheating. Do you know what the problem is?
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to this1986 VW Westfalia pop up camper van...I will be installing the 3rd new fuel pump soon (the 3rd one in the past 7 years) 80,000 miles now on this van. Each new fuel pump seems to whine just very very quietly but as time goes by the whining gets louder & louder which makes me think it will fail and leave me stranded so I have a new one put in. The whining is the only sign of trouble. Van is parked for the whole cold 6 to 7 mo. winter and I do not start the vehicle during the winter. Could this be the cause of 3 fuel pumps seeming to go bad on me.
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisvw golf axel bushes have gone
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisDodge Neon 2005
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thislights spedometer radio when starting the car turning the key will click a couple of times and for the 1st 10 minutes of driving once it starts everything will start going crazy headlights will go dim to light radiowill turn off and on spedometer will jump around. what do you think is wrong with my car.
why do i have antifreeze on the driverside and passenger floor board of my 2002 F150
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thishow do i change the heater core on my 2002 F150
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI have a 2003 Chevrolet Malibu and it was running fine. Got up the next morning and it would not start, I had someone come to jump me off and it would not crank. Battery seemed fine. Had the starter replaced and still would not crank. Someone said it maybe the alternator. I am at my wits end. Got to get running before Thanksgiving. ANY SUGGESTIONS OUT THERE?
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisDo you know anything about American made cars, like the Chevrolet Malibu?
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI have a 1996 Plymouth Voyager Van, that seems to have some sort of electrical problem that cant be found. On damp or cold days, there is no power going to the starter to start the vehicle. All the while there is power to the dash, headlights and wipers. Here is the strange thing, you pull the key out and nothing shuts off. The wipers and headlights stay on and you have to pull there fuses in the fuse box to get them to go out. I have replaced the battery, starter and wiper motor. The fuse box has also been pulled, cleaned and new fuses put in. On dry days, this does not happen and everything works fine. Somedays, you can drive it too work and try to start it an hour later and the described happens. You let it set for a while and it will start. Please help with this phantom, costly problem.
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisThe car is slow in taking off, give it to much gas it dies, it doesn't idle very well. When going up a hill it loses speed but going down it runs fine. It had the timing belt replaced in Sept of this yr., it has been overheating but replaced the top hose, but still seems to lose water. Now the car doesn't want to run very well when it reaches 40 unlike before it ran fine. It doesn't seem to have any power at any speed. I was thinking ti could be the cat. converter, someone said they thought it was something to do with the fuel system because we could smell gas kind of strong for a while. It seems to run worse once it warms up. someone said it sounded like it jumped timing. I dont know what it is but I am getting feed up with it.
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisThe car is slow in taking off, give it to much gas it dies, it doesn't idle very well. When going up a hill it loses speed but going down it runs fine. It had the timing belt replaced in Sept of this yr., it has been overheating but replaced the top hose, but still seems to lose water. Now the car doesn't want to run very well when it reaches 40 unlike before it ran fine. It doesn't seem to have any power at any speed. I was thinking ti could be the cat. converter, someone said they thought it was something to do with the fuel system because we could smell gas kind of strong for a while. It seems to run worse once it warms up. someone said it sounded like it jumped timing. I dont know what it is but I am getting feed up with it.
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I have a 1997 dodge caravan that starts then chugs off. What could be the problem
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI have a 1997 Dodge caravan that will start then chug off what could cause this
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI have a 1997 dodge caravan it starts then chugs off what could be wrong
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI have a 1988 Cutlass Supreme.2.8 multi port fuel injection. Our GM dealer replaced everything that was keeping the "service engine light on."Problem is it is no better than it was. Starts fairly easy when it is cold, but starts getting it starts flooding. It will load up and will not idle. 2 or 3 GM technicians and they have no idea what is wrong.When it eventually starts you have to slowly get it up to about 3,000 RPM and it will sort of smooth out ,let it to a idle and it will load up and die.Only thing we haven,t replaced is the converter. I hope someone call tell me how to fix this thing. I have been working on cars and trucks for 40 yrs. but this one has me stumped. PLEASE ANYONE, HELP WAS SUPPOSED TO BE MY GRANDSON'S CAR. THANKS ,EDWARD
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to this2002 trailblazer stall when it go about 20 feet
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to this2002 trailblazer stall when it go 20 feet
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI HAVE A 1983 FORD PICKUP F150 ENGINE 302 THAT THE BATTERY WILL NOT HOLD ACHARGE OR CHARGE IT. HAVE REPLACED SOLENOID SWITCH,VOLTAGE REGULATOR,ALTERNATOR AND NEW BATTERY AND NEWALTERNATOR BELT. THIS HAS ME STUMPED. CAN ANYONE HELP? THANKS,EDWARD
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI HAVE A 1983 FORD PICKUP F150 ENGINE 302 THAT THE BATTERY WILL NOT HOLD ACHARGE OR CHARGE IT. HAVE REPLACED SOLENOID SWITCH,VOLTAGE REGULATOR,ALTERNATOR AND NEW BATTERY AND NEWALTERNATOR BELT. THIS HAS ME STUMPED. CAN ANYONE HELP? THANKS,EDWARD
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI HAVE A 1983 FORD PICKUP F150 ENGINE 302 THAT THE BATTERY WILL NOT HOLD ACHARGE OR CHARGE IT. HAVE REPLACED SOLENOID SWITCH,VOLTAGE REGULATOR,ALTERNATOR AND NEW BATTERY AND NEWALTERNATOR BELT. THIS HAS ME STUMPED. CAN ANYONE HELP? THANKS, BIGFOOT
Reply | Report Abuse | Link to thisI HAVE A 1983 FORD PICKUP F150 ENGINE 302 THAT THE BATTERY WILL NOT HOLD ACHARGE OR CHARGE IT. HAVE REPLACED SOLENOID SWITCH,VOLTAGE REGULATOR,ALTERNATOR AND NEW BATTERY AND NEWALTERNATOR BELT. THIS HAS ME STUMPED. CAN ANYONE HELP? THANKS, BIGFOOT popeye99@peoplepc.com
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