A GOOD hammer for drivin g mooring stakes may be made of an elm butt, nine or ten inches in diameter, and fourteen inches long. In the center a hole should be made, three inches in diameter. It can be sawed on a band saw by removing the saw Hammer for driving stakes. guide. This done, two parallel cuts should be made, three inches apart from the periphery to the hole, leaving a block which can afterward be replaced and secured to the body of the hammer by means of two fve-inch bolts, as shown in the drawing. When” tightly bolted, the result will be equivalent to a solid ring-shaped hammer. This should weigh about 35 pounds. Handles may be driven in at opposite sides of the hammer so as to permit of operating it readily. In use the block is unbolted and the hammer is placed on the stake, after whieh the block is replaced and bolted in place again. A collar is attached to the stake upon which the blows are struck. The collar may be made of curly hickory, or wo o d that will n(t split, after the pattern illustrated, with %-inch bolts used for clamping it to the stake. The operation of the device is shown quite clearly in the drawing, and in order to prevent the collar from slipping, it would be advisable to use spurs on the V-shaped portions of the damps, so that they will nip into the stake. In pulling stakes the lever is commonly used, although a Spanish windlass can be operated by one person, and is very sure to perform the work satisfactorily. The windlass may be made of a round piece of hard wood about four inches in diameter, with holes bored near each end to receive the iron bars or levers with which it is turned. It should be rested on a couple of half boxes hollowed out to fit the four-inch barrel. These journal boxes should be greased and should be secured to pieces of scantling laid across two boats. To grasp the stake, a chain is used. This SllOUld have a ring or hoop in one end. The chain is passed around the stake and slipped through the hoop, and then is given three turns about the windlass. When the chain is under tension it wiII grip sufficiently to raise the stake without slipping. When lowering the chain for a fresh grip on the stake, it will slide down easily if shaken slightly by the handles. Handy Fly Killer M y “Handy Man” made me sueh a fine “typhoid fy” killer, that I would like the wives of other “Handy Men” to have it. When renewing a window screen, there was a small piece of the wire screen !dt over; my husband took a piece about 4 inches wide and 12 inches long, doubled it, fastened the ends in a saw kerf, sawed in the end of a small stick about 14 inches long. This gave me a “weapon,” with which I can easily kill intruding flies by a sharp, quick stroke; it is very effectual, indeed.-Edllh BadeR. A Planer Bra ce A N excellent device for bracing work on a planer or boring mill is pictured herewith. Fig. I shows the tool and the way it is assembled. The 'part marked A is a piece of n-inch pipe flattened at E. B is a nut which fits over the pipe A.- C is a Device for bracing work on a planer. piece of I-inch round steel threaded and drilled at D for the purpose of adjusting its length. By having an assortment of lengths of pipe.as shown at A, the nut B and rod C remain together and may be inserted into the pipe end at will. Fig. 2 shows a sectional view. How to Prevent Taps from Breaking T HE sketch r e produced herewith shows a handy * kink in the way of preventing taps from breaking. . It Is very dIscouraging to try to tap out a small hole in a piece of work and have the tap break off in the hole. In must cases this means that you must havo the broken part of the tap annealed before it can be driIled out. To avoid this difficulty cut a line parallel with the shank of the tap, as shown in the drawing. The tap is then heated, -half way between the threads and shank end, to a light blue c0'lor. This will eliminate the breaking of the tap, as the shank will twist before it will break and the line will show that the shank of the tap is twisting, thus giving the user warning. This has proved to be a very valuable little kink on small taps.
This article was originally published with the title "Methods of Driving and Pulling Stakes" in Scientific American 105, 9, 191 (August 1911)