Slide Show: The Science Behind 10 Natural Skin Remedies: Why They Work--Or Don't
From hydrating to getting a good night's sleep, two dermatologists explain which home treatments actually work--and why
Slide Show: The Science Behind 10 Natural Skin Remedies: Why They Work--Or Don't
- BEAUTY REST: Does a well-rested body equal a fresher face? Clichés often turn out to be true, but surely the validity of beauty rest as a treatment was banished along with corsets and pin curls.
"Actually, it does make a difference," Madfes says. When you sleep, she notes, your body has quality time to regenerate cells; if you don't get enough shut-eye, the body has less opportunity to create new skin (and other) cells. Too little sleep also leads to increased levels cortisol, a hormone produced by the adrenal gland under stress. Cortisol "makes fat cells dump sugar into your bloodstream," Baumann says. "That's why people who are stressed out have weight problems." The upshot: "More sugar makes people age faster," she says. And that goes for skin, too. It impairs collagen function, leaving skin less elastic. ISTOCKPHOTO/DOMENICOGELERMO - SCRUB-A-DUB: Are homemade exfoliants the better bet? Giving the old bod a good scrub down can get rid of dull, dead skin cells. But are all exfoliation treatments created equal? Madfes says there's no reason to spring for an expensive scrub, noting that any granular paste—including homemade varieties—can get rid of dead skin simply by virtue of its mechanical abrasiveness.
But Baumann warns consumers to beware of the granules they choose, noting some could do more harm than good. Some homemade remedies, for instance, call on the rough powers of ground walnuts or sugar to get the job done. She advises avoiding both: walnuts, "because the pieces are a little too big and can damage the skin" and sugars, because they can hasten aging by binding to proteins like collagen. ISTOCKPHOTO/ELENATHEWISE - TEABAGS AND CUCUMBERS: Good for more than a tea party and finger sandwiches? Cucumber slices are practically the universal sign for home skin care, but can this little trick from the past really perk up tired-looking eyes?
"Cucumbers have an anti-inflammatory capability," Baumann says, which can reduce puffiness. The cool temperature also helps to reduce blood flow to the area, she explains, so "that definitely does work." Damp chamomile tea bags also contain anti-inflammatory elements.
To reduce redness, Baumann recommends using cool, damp bags of black tea. The caffeine from the tea helps to shrink blood vessels and calm down the color, she says. ISTOCKPHOTO/MOCKER_BAT - BEAUTY AND THE FEAST: Will fruit facemasks keep the dermatologist away? It might sound appealing to shun pricey facial treatments in favor of a homemade concoction of fresh fruit and other inexpensive edible ingredients. But will your skin react as positively to the masks as your taste buds?
It depends on the fruit, Madfes says. "A lot of acids like lemons," she says, "facilitate 'declamation' (natural exfoliation), which is helpful for fine lines and acne." But it's important to select ingredients that won't cause a reaction or will clog pores, she cautions.
Other natural ingredients, such as avocado, can help hydrate dry skin by adding oils and improving the skin barrier, Baumann notes. But don't expect radical-busting berry blends to produce any miraculous transformations. "Anti-oxidants are not [incorporated] very well topically," Baumann notes. ISTOCKPHOTO/AGENCYBY - SUPPLING SUPPLEMENTS: Do vitamins or herbal supplements make for more supple skin? Skepticism about the efficacy of supplements has been mounting among scientists. But dermatologists say some of them may help stave off skin damage. For anti-aging purposes, Baumann recommends vitamins C and E, lycopene (found in tomatoes), and lutein (common in spinach and kale). "None of them get rid of wrinkles you already have," she explains. "They just [help] prevent them."
Food is the best way to come by skin-friendly nutrients, Madfes says. "If you're eating a normal healthy diet, your skin should do very well." She recommends seeking foods that contain beta-carotene, along with vitamins A and B. ISTOCKPHOTO/MARSBAR - OIL IT UP: Is oil better slathered or swallowed? For dry skin, some advocate putting oils on the body, whereas others believe it's best to up oil intake through supplements or diet. The answer: do both. Dry skin is a result of a poorly functioning barrier that allows too much moisture to escape from the body, Madfes says. The way to keep skin hydrated is by improving the barrier, which can be done either way—though she prefers supplements to avoid other potential skin issues.
"The problem with putting oils directly on your skin," Madfes says, "is they might clog pores and that would make you break out." Instead she recommends that people take omega-3 (fish or flaxseed oil) supplements or make sure they eat diets flush with omega-3–rich foods such as salmon and flax and linseed oil. Baumann adds that research has shown increased omega-3 consumption may reduce inflammation and redness in people who have eczema, rosacea or acne.
She also notes that linoleic acid—an essential omega-6 fatty acid—in particular can help dry skin. The body doesn't make linoleic acid (which is found in grape seed, sunflower and other oils), but can be obtained through diet or in skin products. ISTOCKPHOTO/LUMIGRAPHICS - WATER IS THE FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH: Is super-hydration just hype? Eight glasses of water a day has long been the gold standard for general health. But as metal water canteens have taken on the status of fashion accessory alongside canvas tote bags, are hyper-hydrators doing their skin a huge favor?
Not necessarily, Baumann says, noting that hydrated skin has less to do with how much water you drink than with how well your skin holds on to moisture. And that means, she says, making sure you get the right kinds of oils in your diet.
Of course, "you have to make sure you drink enough water," to your body hydrated and functioning well. Madfes says. She notes, however, that downing liquids that contain anti-oxidants, such as green tea, play a more active role in improving skin by decreasing free-radical damage. ISTOCKPHOTO/TAMMY616 - YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT: Can you eat your way to better skin? Sugar isn't looking so sweet to many dermatologists these days. It's already gotten a bad rap for a host of other health issues, and now it's also a beauty no-no. In addition to upping the risk of acne, Baumann says, "sugar's been associated with increased aging." In a process called glycation, sugar molecules bind to proteins, such as collagen, causing them to become less effective and show signs of aging more quickly. Her advice: snack on anti-oxidant–rich fruits or vegetables instead of sugary treats. "Anti-oxidants are like free-radical scavengers," Madfes says. They break down the free radicals and prevent them from causing additional cell damage. Flavonoids, common pigments in plants, can be found in citrus, green tea, ginkgo and wine.
Just throwing a few blueberries on your cereal in the morning can help a lot, Baumann adds. She notes that if you must smoke or sunbathe—both activities she advises against—"it becomes that much more important you have anti-oxidants in your diet." ISTOCKPHOTO/RANDYHARRIS - NO BUTTS ABOUT IT: What does smoking really do to your skin? It's common knowledge that smoking isn't good for skin, but what exactly makes it so bad? Among the many downsides, Madfes says: "You have increased free radicals from nicotine; you have decreased oxygen in the skin; repetitive motion [of smoking causes] wrinkle lines in lips." Free radicals, highly reactive chemical particles that can cause cell damage, increase the body's production of metalloproteinase, enzymes that break down collagen. This can cause the skin to sag and wrinkle prematurely, because collagen is a fibrous protein in connective tissue that supports the skin and keeps it firm and elastic.
The bottom line: "Smoking is toxic," Madfes says. And it's not just bad news for those who light up. Secondhand smoke can cause damage, as well. ISTOCKPHOTO/RHOBERAZZI - ATHLETE'S FACE: Exercise might be good for the inside of the body, but does it help the outside, too A brisk workout may leave exercisers feeling good (thanks to those happy-making neurochemicals, endorphins), but can a single exercise session leave you looking better, too? You bet, Madfes says. "When you exercise, you increase blood flow everywhere, which gives you a nice, refreshed look," she says. Plus, exercise makes us healthier, which helps cells—including those in our skin—regenerate faster. Just don't forget to wear sunblock when exercising outdoors, she cautions. Products that block both UVA and UVB rays are best, she says. And remember to shower right after you hop off the trail or treadmill, she notes, because sweat can clog pores and cause blemishes. ISTOCKPHOTO/LE_CYCLOPE
