When it is recollected that the human figure is the very sieme of sj'mmetry and grace, it is somewhat astonishing to see so many awkward and ungraceful-looking persons walking our streets, and we are forced into the conclusion that their tailor did not do them justice when he cut their clothes. Too much attention to dress, as a means of adornment, canaot he too highly censured in men, but a slovenly disregard is just as culpable ; and as we must wear coats and the like, it is correct and proper that we should have them made a proper fit. Ct But how can we obtain this desirable end ?" exclaim all our readers who wish to be well fitted. As wo proceed in our description of the instrument invented by Simeon Corley, of Lexington, S. C, and patented by him December 29, 1857, for the purpose of taking accurate measurements of the body, and of afterwards drafting the garment on cloth, the question will be fully answered. Figs. 1 and 2 are back and front views of a gentleman getting measured for a new coat, and at the same time showing the application of the instrument, of which Fig. 8 is a view of the principal portions, and Fig. 4 shows the method of drafting from measurements taken by the instrument. The instrument itself consists of two principal parts, the hand, A, of -thin steel, or other metal, the object of which is to obtain exactly the measure of the " scye," and apply it to the clotk. This hoop can be contracted or enlarged, and has a set screw, b, and slide, B, which secure it at any circumference—the hoop being graduated into inches and fractions. It lias also another slide, 0, to which a pivot, a, is attached by a hinge, c ; this slide can be moved to any position on the hoop. The slide, B, has n pivot, d, rigidly attached to it. The other principal part of the instrument is a triangle, D E F, also of thin steel, or other flexible and strong material, with an extending arm, D', forming a continuation of 1). This slide, I) and D', should be long enough to extend from the waist upwards, in front of the shoulder, and over it as far as the middle of the back of any customer. The sides, E and F, form respectively angles of about 50 and 40. To the angle, E F, G is added, to strengthen the triangle, and also to keep the angle, K F, at the same distance from D, when drawn over the body, as when laid flat upon the cloth. At the bottom of I) is a hole, f, and a pivot, g, and at the junction of E F G is a hole, A, and pivot, i, at the junction of D G is a hole and pivot, k, and at the top of the arm, E, is a hole, t. The pivots, g i k, project from both sides of the instrument, so that it can be made applicable to either side of the body. M N 0 are three straps, each having a stud at one end, to hook into one of I the holes, and at some distance from its other (end, each is perforated at intervals of about ||half an inch. These straps serve to attach the instrument to the body. A tape measure having a hole at one end, to hook on to any of the pivots, completes the arrangements. Before taking a measurement, the hight of the neck scam, at the center of the back, should be marked on tlie customer, as seen at o, (Fig. 2,) and a mark should be made on the back seam, opposite or between the two most prominent points of the blade bones (seen at m, Fig. 2), and the natural length of the waist should be marked on the back seam —seen at n, Fig. 2. These preparations being made, extend the hoop, A, and tdip it over the arm until it encircles the " scye " as close as possible to the body, and then contract it until it fits closely, but comfortably, taking care to bring the pivot, d, opposite the middle of the place where what is termed the " back scye" ought to be, then by turning the set screw, 6, the hoop will be fixed to the right size. Suppose, for example, that the instrument is applied to the right side, as in Fig. 1; place the triangle with its hole near k, on the pivot, a, of the slide, c, and bring the arm, r/, against the collar seam, and draw it up, moving the slide, C, until the side, E, is near the collar seam, in front, and while in that position attach the strap, M, to the hole, t, and lead the strap under the left shoulder back to the same place, as seen in Fig. 2. Then turn up the lapel of the coat, and pressing the triangle down flat against the center of the breast, draw the strap, N, under the left arm, and attach it to d ; then pressing the triangle closely downward and backward, draw the strap, 0, tightly round the waist, and attach it to one of its own studs. The instrument being adjusted, take the first measure from o to m, Fig. 2, the second from m to n, the third from n to the waist, and the fourth from the waist for the length of the skirt. Then attach the tape measure to d, and take the fifth measure across to the "hack seam ;" the sixth to o, and the seventh to point .. Note the "scye " measure on the hoop, A, and the number of inches from d to G, which are the eighth and ninth measures. Next place the tape measure on point, g, and take the tenth measure to d, the eleventh to o, the twelfth to re, and the thirteenth to the natural waist. Then move the tape to k, and take the fourteenth measure over the right shoulder to o, the fifteenth over the same shoulder to , and the sixteenth to d ; afterwards remove the tape to i, and take the seventeenth and eighteenth measures, as seen in Fig. 1. Take the breast and waist measures in the usual way, and the operation is finished. The dotted lines on the arm, E, (Fig. 2,) show the position it should properly take when adjusted. To draft from the above measurements, draw upon the cloth a straight line, 1, Fig. 4, and a short one, 2, nearly square : mark out on line 1, commencing with its junction with 2, the first, second, third and fourth measurements. Erect at the terminal points of these measures upon line 1, the perpendiculars, 3, 4 and 5, and measure out on line 3, the fifth measure, and square line 0 .up to it. Then place the end of the tape at the junction of 1 and 2, which corresponds with o, Fig. 2, and take the sixth measure to line C, from thence take the seventh measure to the waist, and draw the line. Next draw the line from a point in the line 1, opposite the intersection of the fifth and sixth measures on the line G, to the terminus of the seventh measure, where the natural length of the waist is indicated, and mark out and cut the back to any shape that fancy or fashion may dictate. The outline of the back is shown in Fig. 4 on the right of It by firm black line. Next lay the "indicator," or "form transfer," or instrument, on any part of the cloth from which the front part of the garment can he cut with advantage, and apply the eighth measure, by marking around the inside of the hoop, A, and afterwards apply the tenth measure, to establish the proper position of the triangle relatively to the hoop ; then mark around the triangle to fix its position, so that it may not be lost in future markings. Then lay off the eleventh, twelfth, and thirteenth measures, from the pivot, g, describing a short arc at the end of each. Afterwards lay off the fourteenth, fifteenth and sixteenth measures, from the pivot, k, and the seventeenth and eighteenth from the pivot i. Next take the back that has been cut, and place the intersecting lines of the fifth, sixth and seventh measures on the back, to the pivot, d, and bring the back in the position relatively to the front in which the measures were taken, that is to say, the top of the hack to the arc of the measure 11, and mark the upper part of the side seam on the front from the back. Afterward place the hand on the line 3, where it crosses at the side seam, and draw the middle of the back at the waist up to the arc described by the twelfth measure, and then form the remainder of the side seam from the back. Now remove the back, and place it as represented, in the upper part of Fig. i, bringing the point, o, to the arc described by the fourteenth measurements, and the terminal point of the fifth and sixth measurements to the arc described by the eleventh measurement, and the point, m, to the arc described by the fifteenth measurement, letting the top of the , back or neck rest on the line indicated by the j edge of the arm, D', of the instrument, t While the back is in position mark from it thef 229 shoulder seam, the neck gorge, and the "scye." Then apply the nineteenth measure to mark the throttle, and the breast and waist measures, adding to the breast any surplus for lapel as fashion may demand. From the bottom of the fore part to the measures thirteen and eighteen, give the spring to the seam 1 under the arm, as the measure thirteen may ; indicate. Tlie advantages obtained by the use of this instrument may be set forth as follows :— First, Getting the exact size of the "scye" at the right place, by keeping the hoop, A, close against the body during the time of taking" the measurement. Second, By placing the arm, D, of the triangle against the neck scam, mid drawing all sides of the triangle closely against the breast, as described, a base line is unerringly established from neck to wuist, thus bringing the pivot, g, at the "waist backward or forward on the side of the customer, as his shape may need—the measures from the pivot, g, establishing correctly the relative positions of all the other points of the garment. Third, The relative positions of all points in coat-drafting are established, and every part of the garment is enabled to be delineated accurately in its relation to every other part, without which no garment can fit. For tailors it is a valuable addition to their usual tools of trade. For further information address the inventor as before stated
This article was originally published with the title "Improved Tailor's Measure"