Moving the Chess Pieces

Join Our Community of Science Lovers!

This article was published in Scientific American’s former blog network and reflects the views of the author, not necessarily those of Scientific American


Editor's Note: Marine geophysicist Robin Bell is leading an expedition to Antarctica to explore a mysterious mountain range beneath the ice sheet. Following is the fourth of her updates on the effort as part of Scientific American.com's In-depth Report on "The Future of the Poles."

McMURDO STATION, ANTARCTICA--Ever since we first conceived of this project, the logistics have been complex. Now the pieces are beginning to converge on the center of Antarctica. Having been stalled in South America for over two weeks by weather and bureaucracy, the British Twin Otters finally landed on the gravel runway at the main British base on the peninsula. The surface traverse carrying the fuel for the southern camp and the heavy material for the camp has covered almost 400 miles across the very flat Ross Ice Shelf. Today we have our survey Twin Otter so we can begin to bolt equipment to the floor and the wings. But patience continues to be the name of the game. 


On supporting science journalism

If you're enjoying this article, consider supporting our award-winning journalism by subscribing. By purchasing a subscription you are helping to ensure the future of impactful stories about the discoveries and ideas shaping our world today.


Far on the other side of the continent, the German Bassler (a slightly modernized version of the historic DC-3) is ready to begin moving material to the northern camp but is pinned down in a blizzard. The U.S. Air Force C-17 along with the fuel for the northern camp and my colleagues are stuck in New Zealand waiting for the weather to clear. The ski-equipped aircraft Twin Otter ready to move the camp staff to the high altitude southern camp was diverted to conduct a medi-vac from another project. 

Aircraft are both our scientific instrument and the backbone of the expedition logistical network. On this ice covered continent, there are several tricks that allow airplanes to operate. In some places along the edges like the British Rothera station there are gravel runways where aircraft with wheels can land, but these are few and far between. 

Here at McMurdo, engineers have embraced the many faces of the frozen water to make safe landing sites. Looking out the window of the science building, the annual sea ice is flat. This six- foot thick expanse of ice can be used as a runway for skied aircraft until just after Thanksgiving. By early December, the strengthening sun produces extensive melt ponds and the airport roads quickly turn to mush and the infrastructure must be moved to the south. By mid- December, there are penguins, seals and orcas swimming along the former runways. This temporary facility is expensive to build, but the sea ice is flat and strong so aircraft with wheels can easily land here. Due to the budgetary shortfalls from the high cost of fuel, there is no sea ice runway this season. 

Our science aircraft is at the oldest McMurdo facility, Willy Field, a fully functional snow-covered airport complete with a control tower. This airport rests on the 300-foot thick floating ice shelf – a piece of the Antarctic ice sheet that has gone afloat. Given the soft snow cover at Willy Field, only airplanes with skies can land here. The New York Air National Guard C-130 just returned from our camp in the interior after  dropping off a load of camp cargo, including the frames for the cloth-sided building where we will sleep. 

My colleagues arrived on Thanksgiving Day on the wheeled Air Force C-17. This runway is built on hard glacier ice that is meticulously groomed each year to ensure that it is the perfect surface for airplanes with wheels. A two-inch layer of packed snow protects the ice from the summer sun but is solid enough to support wheeled aircraft.

Snow and ice are the material of choice for Antarctic aircraft operations. With any luck,the weather will improve and more of the chess pieces will land on snow and ice moving us closer to collecting data. 

Dispatches from the Bottom of the Earth: An Antarctic Expedition in Search of Lost Mountains Encased in Ice

(Images courtesy of Beth Burton. Above, the twin otter outfitted with the magnetometer pod on the end of the wing. Below, Michael Studinger installing the pod on the wing.)

It’s Time to Stand Up for Science

If you enjoyed this article, I’d like to ask for your support. Scientific American has served as an advocate for science and industry for 180 years, and right now may be the most critical moment in that two-century history.

I’ve been a Scientific American subscriber since I was 12 years old, and it helped shape the way I look at the world. SciAm always educates and delights me, and inspires a sense of awe for our vast, beautiful universe. I hope it does that for you, too.

If you subscribe to Scientific American, you help ensure that our coverage is centered on meaningful research and discovery; that we have the resources to report on the decisions that threaten labs across the U.S.; and that we support both budding and working scientists at a time when the value of science itself too often goes unrecognized.

In return, you get essential news, captivating podcasts, brilliant infographics, can't-miss newsletters, must-watch videos, challenging games, and the science world's best writing and reporting. You can even gift someone a subscription.

There has never been a more important time for us to stand up and show why science matters. I hope you’ll support us in that mission.

Thank you,

David M. Ewalt, Editor in Chief, Scientific American

Subscribe